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Palestine Photos Complete!

July 25th, 2008 | 6 Comments | Posted in Featured, My Photos, The Traveling Photographer

Yep, that’s right! I have finished processing over 14,000 photos from my incredible trip to Palestine. They’ve all been uploaded to Flickr where they’ve been tagged and categorized into different sets. There are sets for each of the major activities, a set of just photos of the volunteers, a set for photos of the kids of New Askar Refugee Camp, a set for Hebron, and also a set for each day. The only thing left is to geo-tag them and, perhaps, add titles and descriptions to each. No, small task but something I might begin.

In the meantime, I wanted to share just a couple of my favorites…

A Parade Through New Askar Refugee Camp

The following photos were taken on our first day with the kids from the refugee camp. As part of their welcome ceremony, they led us on a parade through the refugee camp to lay wreaths at the graves of children that have died from Israeli military actions over the last two years:


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The Old City of Nablus

The following photos were taken while going on a walking tour of the Old City section of Nablus. The place is like a maze and is the almost-daily target of Israeli incursions.

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Portraits in a Strange Land

When traveling in other countries with a camera, you’ll undoubtedly come across people that you will want to photograph. After all, that is really the essence of another country, isn’t it? Especially when the country and corresponding culture are so drastically different from your own. But how does a photographer get these photos? Where is the line between being respectful of the local culture and respecting someone’s privacy and getting the shot? Well, there is no easy answer, but I’ll share a few things I’ve discovered in my recent travels. Of course, my experiences and insights might be different than what you have experienced, but given the very conservative nature of the cultures I’ve recently visited (and photographed), I hope some of it will be useful no matter where you travel.

The Law

First and foremost, know the law before you go. In the United States, I have no problem with giving lip or being difficult with a security guard or police officer who tells me I can’t take photos in a public place because I am a citizen and I know my rights and protections. In another country, especially in countries that may not place a great emphasis on human rights or fair criminal proceedings, the equation changes dramatically. Unfortunately, there is no easy-to-find resource for finding this out.

For example, while I was in India, I was told by a security guard that I could not take a photo of a particular office building. In the US, if I was told I couldn’t take a photo of a building from a public sidewalk, especially if I was told by a private security guard, I’d take the photo anyway, or at least challenge him. In India, not so much. I simply nodded my head and walked away.

In Palestine, too, I had to be mindful of where I took photos. Obviously at Israeli checkpoints, photography is generally frowned upon. Of course, there are photos of Israeli checkpoints all over the place if you look for them. The problem is that this is often left up to the commander on-site and you will most likely require explicit permission to take photos. If not, you may be able to get a few shots but you risk having your camera confiscated for good. In addition, since I was traveling with local Palestinians, it’s likely that they or their families would have suffered the consequences of me taking an unauthorized photo. Not a risk I was willing to take. Maybe next time I’ll risk a few shots, if I’m traveling alone.

While the Israeli army is likely to be the greatest impediment to photo freedom in Palestine, one of my Palestinian friends has had his camera confiscated by Palestinian security forces inside the city of Nablus. They confiscated his camera for a few days before they finally gave it back to him. Had he had a “photography permit” from the Palestinian Authority, he could have avoided this altogether. Of course, I walked around with a camera and without a permit and I didn’t have any problems. But when we came across armed men, I did my best to either hide the camera and/or not take photos anywhere near them. Maybe it wouldn’t have been a problem, maybe it would have. But, the underlying problem is, in volatile places such as these, you may never really know what the rules are. Be mindful of it at all times.

Unfortunately, I don’t know of any central resource for photography laws worldwide, but you might be able to find some answers by searching the Internet, finding a few people on Flickr who are local, or, your best option may be calling the embassy of the country you’re interested in. Bottom line: Be aware that you are in a country where you may not have the same protections and rights you have at home.

Asking Permission, or Just Shoot

This is a tough one. Most people will tell you to be respectful of the local people and always ask before you take a photo of someone. In my experience, if I asked permission before I took a photo of someone, there wouldn’t be anyone in any of my photos.

I’m not saying you should shove your lens in the face of anyone you want without so much as a warning, but if you give people the option to say no, many of them will. You want to be respectful but you also want the shot. So you have to judge for yourself whether permission is required or not. Many times, if I make eye contact with someone, I’ll politely smile, gesture with my camera, and judge their reaction. When I do this, I estimate that I have about a 50% success rate in getting the shot.

Other times, if it’s a public street and a public situation, I’ll just point and shoot, trying to make sure my camera settings are ready to go. Therefore, anytime I enter an area where the lighting changes significantly, I’ll have the camera meter the light and then I’ll change the ISO or aperture appropriately. That way I’m ready to go without having to change settings and potentially miss the shot. Then when the opportunity presents itself, one of two things will happen:

- If the person is looking at me or in my general direction, I’ll (somewhat) slowly put the camera up to my face (making sure they see me do it) so that they have the chance to say No or otherwise indicate that they don’t want a photo taken.

- If the person is not looking at me or if the situation I’m trying to catch will soon be over, I just aim and shoot. If the person is still looking at me, or is now looking at me, I’ll smile, nod, and say “thank you” in their language. Most of the time, if it’s practical, I’ll also offer to show them the photo on the LCD… this is especially true with children. Most of the adults will smile and nod approvingly and you’ll be on your way.

The type of photo you’re trying to take will largely determine how you get, or don’t get, permission. Getting a close-up portrait of someone (without a long lens) is a situation where you’ll almost always need to ask for permission. If you’re taking more of a “street view” shot with someone close by on one side of the frame, you may not need to. Just shoot and move on.

Please note, however, that you do this at your own risk. I have never had a problem with the subject of any of my photos, but be aware that it’s possible. You never know, particularly in a different country or culture, how someone may react to having their photo taken. Just be aware of where you are and use your judgment to determine whether or not you should explicitly ask for permission before opening the shutter.

Interesting travel note: I noticed that more people were willing, even eager, to have their photo taken in Palestine than in India. Palestine is a Muslim country and Nablus is a very conservative city, even by Palestinian standards, but I found people in India to be less willing to smile for the camera.

Let Your Lenses Get the Shot

So we all know that a nice, long lens will allow you to get some great close-in candid shots. I would definitely encourage you to do this if you can. However, even with a 200mm lens, you still will have to be in the general vicinity of your subject and they may see you snap the shot. And with a lens that long, it won’t be easy to convince them you were taking a photo of someone else.

This is where I like wide lenses. I have a Canon 24-70mm, f/2.8 lens that I use as my primary walkaround lens. It’s not particularly wide, but on the full-frame 5D, it’s wide enough. The great thing about this lens is that I can get fairly close to someone, place them on the right or left side of the frame, and they still will have no idea they’re in the shot because the lens isn’t pointed right at them. As long as you don’t look guilty, or stare at them and smile after you take it, they’ll probably never know. Is it sneaky? Sure. But you’re a photographer and you want that shot.

Women

Here is where you need to be really careful. In conservative, non-Western cultures, such as India and Palestine, you have to be particularly careful about photographing women, especially women that you do not know.

Usually, I stick to the same guidelines I outlined above but I am much more careful and much more likely to ask for permission, especially if the woman is covered. By “covered”, I generally mean Muslim women wearing an abaya (full-body covering) or hijab (just head covering). Interestingly enough, the percentage of women fully-covered in India was much higher than in Palestine. Most Palestinian women only wear a hijab, while another significant percentage wear no covering at all. Even still, one must be extremely careful.

This even extends to women you do know. For example, in the voluntary workcamp in which I participated, most of the young women allowed me to photograph them but most of them were very concerned about what I was going to do with the photo. And, on top of that, some were concerned about what kinds of photos they were in. A solo or big group photo might be OK, but a photo of them with a guy might not be OK. In addition, it also depended on what they were doing in the photo. During one of our free days, we went to a water park where most of us got completely wet, though still clothed. Many of the young Palestinian ladies were OK with photos of them being online but a lot of them didn’t want photos of them at the water park online. Or, many of them didn’t mind if the photos were on Flickr but many didn’t want them on Facebook, where all their friends were. This included both girls that wore a hijab and girls that weren’t covered at all.

To keep track of it all, I created a spreadsheet where all the girls could tell me if they cared if I uploaded a photo of them, in what situations was it OK, and in what situations was it not OK. Not only did this help me keep track of who wanted what so as to not offend them, I think it put a lot of them at ease, as well.

Something to keep in mind. Being careful is a must when photographing overseas but you must be particularly careful when photographing women.

Children

Ah, the fun part. The kids. We all know that photographing kids, as a stranger, can be a suspicious activity in any country. The same applies overseas. If a parent is around, ask if you can take their child’s photo. Most parents I ran into, didn’t seem to have a problem with it but it’s always a good idea to ask first.

What you do have to be prepared for is the potential mob your photography might create. Once you break through the ice with that first shot, you may be up for taking about a hundred more. This was the case in both India and Palestine, but more so in Palestine. Once I took a photo of one kid, I had to take a photo of every kid… multiple times! It’s a lot of fun but the mob can be overwhelming. More than once in Palestine I needed help restraining the mob of children all eager to smile for the camera. Be prepared!

Also, a good idea might be to pack a small, cheap point-and-shoot and have it available. There were a few times that I would take a few photos of some kids, show them the photo on the LCD, and then they would want to take the camera and take a photo of me. While I appreciate the gesture and I loved the kids, I wasn’t quite ready to hand over $5,000 worth of equipment to a mob of excited eight year-olds. So, bring a point-and-shoot that you can afford to lose if it’s dropped. They’ll love taking photos with it!

Conclusion

Ultimately, there is no clear guide to photographing strangers in a foreign country. Your goal is to balance the need to respect the local people and the need to be a photographer. You’ll find that, in most situations, a little common sense, self-awareness, and cultural sensitivity can go a long way to getting you the shot you want without causing an international incident.

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Reflections on Palestine

This is a photography blog, not an outlet for political commentary. However, I cannot stay silent on issues that affect me as a photographer, an American citizen, and a human being. For some reason that I still have not figured out, Palestine is a controversial topic. Reasonable debate about the issue has been replaced with overblown rhetoric, charges of anti-Semitism, and heated emotion on both sides. It is not my intent to add to the hot air on a blog that is supposed to be about photography. But I will spend one post telling you what I think and what I saw.

Two Brothers First things first: If you are in any Western country, particularly the United States, you are not getting the whole story about this conflict. I’ve been studying this conflict for over 16 years now. Every day I read news about the region from a wide variety of sources, from Israeli newspapers to Palestinian blogs. I’ve communicated with some of my Palestinian friends on a daily basis over the last three and half years. And, now, I’ve been there twice. I can say, without a shadow of a doubt, you are not getting the whole story about this conflict.

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Nablus Night in HDR

July 17th, 2008 | 4 Comments | Posted in Featured, My Photos, The Traveling Photographer

If you’ve been reading this blog for any amount of time now, you know I love HDR photos… maybe a little too much! But, given the kind of shooting I was doing in Palestine, there weren’t too many opportunities to do HDRs. There was one night, however, when we were visiting the Darna Center, that I was able to get on the roof, set the camera on a flat surface and get some high-dynamic range photos of my second home. You can see them below…

I’m almost done with editing the 14,000 photos I took in Palestine. I only have 3 more days worth of photos left. I am hoping to be finished this weekend, at which point I’ll be back to a more normal blogging schedule. I have some great things to talk about, too!

You can see my entire Palestine 2008 collection here.


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Nablus After Dark


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Nablus at Sunset

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A few Palestine uploads

July 10th, 2008 | 3 Comments | Posted in Featured, My Photos, The Traveling Photographer

Given that I have about 10,000 more photos to edit from my trip, I won’t be updating the blog every time I finish a new batch… That’s just a little too much. However, I did want to post about the most recent batch because it was from a day where I probably shot more than any other single day during my trip.

This batch of photos is from June 15th. You might remember from previous posts, that June 15th was our first day at New Askar Refugee Camp. The kids from the camp led us on a parade through the refugee camp to the cemetery where they layed wreaths at the graves of children who have recently been killed by the Israeli army. It was quite an incredible event.

Anyway, I’ve posted some photos below… some of which you may not have seen yet. The entire set of June 15th’s photos can be found here.


A Face of Palestine


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Jerusalem Photos Complete

I want to thank all of you for your patience as I deal with some family issues and edit thousands of photos from my trip. I took approximately 14,000 photos during my trip, with about 2,000 of them being in Jerusalem. I’ve finally made my way through all of the Jerusalem photos and have uploaded them to Flickr. I’ve included a few of my favorites (some of which you may have seen already) from Jerusalem below…

You can see the entire Jerusalem set here. Next up, I will be going through about 12,000 photos from the West Bank! Stay tuned!


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VI Station


We Need Peace


Stone of Unction


Kids


Dome of the Rock


Friends

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Bethlehem, Hebron, and our last weekend

June 29th, 2008 | 3 Comments | Posted in Featured, My Photos, The Traveling Photographer

Early Friday morning, we began a trip to visit a couple other Palestinian cities before the end of the camp. On the agenda were Bethlehem and Hebron. These two cities are the cities that I have wanted to visit the most since the last time I was here so I was very excited.

Below is an abridged version of the weekend since I am a little pressed for time right now…

In Bethlehem, we stopped at the Church of the Nativity, of course, and then we went on a walking tour of the Old City. After lunch, we went to Aida refugee camp and saw the Israeli “security” wall. What an experience to see it up close.

After the wall, we spent the night in a small village called Beit Sahour. We went out for dinner and then went to another place nearby for arguileh and live music. We had a blast! Some had a little too much fun. :-)

On Saturday morning, we all awoke and had breakfast and then we drove to Hebron. Visiting Hebron is a very sobering experience. If you want to understand Palestinian anger, a visit to Hebron is absolutely necessary. Hebron is the only city where you will find Israeli settlers living in close proximity to local Palestinians. The result is horrendous. Entire streets are closed to Palestinians, there are checkpoints and road blocks everywhere. On some streets, Palestinians have had to erect fences and nets above the street to prevent the settlers above from throwing garbage and rocks on them. I had heard about this before but to see it with my own eyes is disturbing. And, yet, you’ll never hear about this on the news. In fact, we went to visit a mosque and before you enter the mosque, there are literally three checkpoints within 20 meters of each other. And, at each checkpoint, you have to take everything out of your pockets, sometimes completely disrobe, and let the soldiers go through your bags. All this just so that Palestinian Muslims can enter a mosque to pray. Unbelievable.

Anyway, there are a few photos from both days below…


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Our last day with the kids

June 25th, 2008 | 2 Comments | Posted in Featured, My Photos, The Traveling Photographer

Regretfully, today was our last day working with the kids. Tomorrow, we will be heading to the refugee camp but instead of working with the kids, we will have a farewell party. So, instead of signing up for only one section, I decided to wander around and take photos. I ended up taking about 1000 in a couple hours so the photos below are only a small excerpt…

On a side note, my blogging frequency may slow down even more in the next few days. For our last weekend in Palestine, our local hosts are taking us to Ramallah (where we may get to meet Palestinian president Mahmoud Abbas), Bethlehem, and Hebron. I have already been to Ramallah but I have been dying to see Bethlehem and Hebron. I imagine we’ll be on a pretty tight schedule and I don’t know what the Internet situation will be like. Rest assured, though, once I am in one place at the beginning of next week (either Jerusalem or Ramallah), I will update the blog with some stories and photos.

If you like, you can always follow me on Twitter @sduffyphotos or you can subscribe to the blog via RSS or email.


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Death in Nablus

June 24th, 2008 | 4 Comments | Posted in Featured, My Photos, The Traveling Photographer

This morning we awoke to news that the Israeli army had entered the city last night and had killed two Palestinian men, one of whom was a student at An-Najah University. Apparently, the IDF was looking for a militant from Islamic Jihad and had entered a Nablus neighborhood where they believed he was located. According to eyewitnesses we talked to, the Israeli army blew open the door to a university dorm building and then broke into the dorm itself. One person, a student at An-Najah was shot fifteen times while still laying in bed. The second person, allegedly the man the IDF was looking for, appeared to have been injured by explosives set by the IDF and may have been shot afterward.

I was able to gain access to the dorm building to take photos as soon as the Palestinian police had given me the green light after they finished their search for any unexploded ordinance. The scene inside was surreal. A large hole had been blasted through the wall into the apartment next door. Furniture and personal belongings were strewn about almost as if a tornado had gone through. In the bedroom, you could see blood that had already soaked into the mattress and spilled on to the floor.

I don’t think I quite realized what I was shooting when I was shooting it. You just go into a zone and start shooting. It really didn’t hit me until later that I had photographed a scene where, only a couple hours earlier, two men had been killed.

After photographing the building, my fellow photographer, who I call Judge, took me to Rafidia Hospital where we heard there was going to be a martyr parade through the city. Despite the morbid nature of the event, I have to admit I was quite excited for the opportunity to photograph something I had only previously seen on the news. When we arrived at the hospital, however, we learned that the bodies had been taken to Jenin, which is where one of the young men was from.

Reuters is reporting that both young men were militants. One from Islamic Jihad and one from Hamas. From what I gather, one may have, in fact, been affiliated with Islamic Jihad but it is unlikely that the other was associated with any militant group. In fact, Israel, at first, denied killing two people. It was only later that this was changed and they claimed the second person was with Hamas. Doubtful.

Anyway, here are a few photos…


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A Palestinian wedding shoot

June 23rd, 2008 | 4 Comments | Posted in Featured, My Photos, The Traveling Photographer

I haven’t had a chance to blog in a few days… Sometimes, I’m simply too tired and other days the Internet connection is not working. But tonight, I opted out of the football match at the university so I could stay behind and catch up on some blogging.

Saturday

On Saturday night, all of us went over to Sa’ed’s house for dinner. I met Sa’ed the last time I was in Nablus when he was head of Public Relations for An-Najah University. He is still very much involved with the Zajel program. On Saturday, he had us all over at his house where he gave lecture on the geopolitical history of the conflict, complete with a ton of maps showing different stages of the conflict. He also recounted the story of how his mother was killed in 2002 by the Israeli army while she was sitting on her front porch during a curfew. You can read about it on the website www.remembershaden.org.

Sunday

On Sunday, after all of us had returned from the refugee camp, all of the international volunteers gave a presentation on the country they live in. Since most people know more about the United States than we could possibly cover in a single presentation, we decided to do short presentations on where we are from in the US. This meant that I gave a brief presentation on Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, complete with a few Terrible Towels. I gotta try and start that Steeler fan club here.! :-)

After the presentations, one of the local families in our village invited us out to a wedding party that was happening right in front of our castle. What a blast! I was warmly welcomed with my camera and I was able to get inside the huge crowd and take some shots. With the action and lighting, it was probably some of the most technically difficult shooting I’ve done yet. But, I am really happy with some of the shots. You can see a few below… I’ll even be putting a bunch of them on DVD before I leave so that the wedding party can have them. Who would have thought my first wedding shoot would be in Palestine?


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